Early Arrival Into Burgos

Today (Day 12) is Wednesday, May 17, and I am in Burgos. I arrived here a day earlier than planned, hiking over 25 miles yesterday to get into the city. While my feet were terribly pained the last 5 miles, I am pleased that I decided to get here so that I can have today to explore Burgos, which is an impressive city (at least the old part).

So my previous post had me in Granon (Day 9). Day 10 I hiked to Villafranca, a small town of one restaurant and one tiny supermarket in the Oca Mountains. I stayed in a not-so-clean tiny room with a shared bathroom with 3 other pilgrims. The hike into Villafranca was around 18 miles again, and the views were of farms and the highway. Unfortunately, Camino views are not always the best, and today, the trail was adjacent to a busy highway.

While checking my accommodations for the next night (Day 11), I discovered that I had booked a hostel in Castanares de Rioja, which is not on the Camino (it is in a town about 30 miles from Burgos). I thought I had planned to stay in Castanares, which is on the Camino. I had to cancel the hostel booked in the wrong town, and discovered there were no accommodations available in Castanares. My best and only real option was to go another 5+ miles into Burgos, thus getting me into the city earlier than planned. I was able to book a room for Tuesday night in Burgos. And I already had an apartment rented for Wednesday night in Burgos, so I ended up having a zero day in the city, which was not planned, but very much enjoyed.

I met a couple of female triathletes from Mt. Shasta, CA a few days back, and we reconnected unexpectedly yesterday about 6 miles outside Burgos. We hiked into Burgos together, and it seemed the timing was perfect – we were all tired, feet hurting and blistered, and the miles and miles of pavement and stones walking into Burgos was disheartening. We encouraged and joked with each other, shared a last square of a chocolate bar, and finally arrived at our accommodations for the night. Luanne and Renee hiked on to Hontanas today, so we probably will not connect again on the Camino. Buen Camino, you two!

So Day 12 (Wednesday) I am exploring Burgos without my backpack, soaking in the sun, and exploring the cathedrals and churches of the city. Currently I am sitting on a marble bench in Plaza Mayor writing this blog. Locals are enjoying time outdoors on the plaza, and there are a few pilgrims just arriving in town with their heavy backpacks and hiking poles.

Tomorrow (Thursday), I will hike about 20 miles into Hontanas. The next several days I will be hiking the Maseta – large, flat fields that are typically hot with few places to rest. Many pilgrims skip this section of the Camino, but if you’re prepared, it should provide a different experience on the pilgrimage. The Maseta extends from Burgos to Leon.

I continue to be in good spirits. My feet are holding up, and the Hoka Speedgoat shoes have been a game changer. My back bothers me often, and the weight of my camera strapped on my left shoulder causes some shoulder pain. The past 3 days have either had rain or the forecast called for rain, so I stored my camera inside my backpack. That eliminated the shoulder pain for those days. I continue to take photos on my iPhone which I share with you on my blog.

Below are some photos from the past 3 days – hope they make you feel like you’re part of the journey.

It takes a big heart to hike the Camino. Artwork painted on a tunnel underneath a busy highway. It gave me the direction of travel to stay on the Camino.

Have you ever seen such a thing?! Outdoor exercise equipment outside a gated cemetery! What’s the message in this picture?! Exercise kills, or you better exercise or you’ll end up dead.

Views from the Camino hiking into Villafranca. Yes, I passed those pilgrims up ahead.

I love the poppies along the trail.

Inside a cathedral in Belorado – now I know why I can’t find veggies in Spain, they use them for decorations in the churches.

Kinda old bridge in Belorado.

Painted mural on an old building on my way to Villafranca. Today I am in Burgos, and the next city I come to is Leon. Then Santiago de Compostela, where the Camino ends.

Not sure what this structure is, but my guess is a church built into the side of a mountain. I captured the photo at a distance from the Camino.

Distance markers have been rare on the Camino but I did notice this one on the hike to Villafranca. Only 342 miles to Santiago.

Farmland for miles and miles.

Town in the distance from the trail on Day 11 as I hiked into Burgos.

A cross surrounded by stones with Spanish military training grounds in the background, surrounded by layers of barbed wire fencing.

Day 11 – finally in Burgos after 25 miles (many on pavement and sidewalks). Left – Luanne, middle – Conundrum (me), and right – Renee. These super athletes are from Mt. Shasta, CA.

The yellow Camino shell painted on an apartment building in Burgos.

The Burgos Cathedral – wowza!

Photo of the Burgos Cathedral taken from my hotel room Tuesday evening.

An old pilgrim and me hanging out in Santa Maria plaza with the Burgos Cathedral in the background.