Let’s Talk Scallop Shells

It is June 1 (Thursday) and I am taking a zero day in Sarria, about 112 km/70 miles from Santiago de Compostela, the end of the Camino Frances. Yesterday’s hike into Sarria from Fonfria was breath-taking – there was a thick fog over the mountains in the morning that was so peaceful and still – I knew that all was well with my soul.

The 21-mile hike took me through lots of farms, and if you wanna smell cow and horse dung, well, this is your place on earth. Most of the trek Wednesday had me walking in piles of splattered poop – I smelled like I had been walking in manure when I got to the apartment in Sarria where I am staying for a couple nights. Fortunately there was a washer in the apartment so I promptly did a load of laundry and another one today. Of course, dryers are not standard in Spain so my clothes are hung in my apartment trying to dry.

So tomorrow (June 2) I will encounter hundreds of new pilgrims just starting their Camino – they will hike the final 112 km of the Camino Frances, just enough to earn their Compostela (certificate of completion). The trail will be crowded for the final 4 days of my pilgrimage. I’ll figure it out, and in the end, I will earn my Compostela and know that I hiked 491 miles/790 km to Santiago.

So what’s the deal with the scallop shell (vieira) that is readily seen along the Camino de Santiago? In fact, I picked one up at the Pilgrim’s Office in St. Jean Pied de Port, the town where I began my pilgrimage, and I have it strung to my backpack. Where did the shell originate, and what is its meaning? The following is a detailed explanation of the scallop shell, and I will not be offended if you decide to just check out the photos at the bottom of the post. But since I see the shell at least 100 times/day, I thought it made sense to share the details with you. Enjoy or not.

The ‘Vieira,’ as it is called in Galician and Spanish, helps pilgrims on their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. But there is more to the scallop shell symbol, and there are many legends, myths, and stories that connect the ‘Vieira’ and Saint James Way (Camino de Santiago).

St. James, one of Jesus’s disciples, traveled to Iberia, which is now known as Galicia, to convert pagans to Christianity. When he returned to Jerusalem, King Herod ordered his beheading, making him the first disciple to be martyred. His body was returned to Galicia by ship, and it is allegedly buried at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

But what is the relation between St. James and the scallop shell? Well, this is explained by the myths and legends any pilgrim should know.

According to one story, the ship that was carrying St. James’ body was destroyed in a storm, and his body was discovered on the shore completely undamaged because he was covered in scallop shells.

A second myth tells us that the ship passed by a beach wedding, and it scared the horse ridden by the bride. The horse got into the water with her on its back, but, thanks to Divine Intervention, they were saved, emerging from the water covered in scallop shells.

There is another legend saying that while the ship with St. James’ body was passing beneath a cliff, a knight fell from the top, and a miracle made the knight emerge from the sea covered in scallop shells.

The legends are interesting and get you closer to the local culture. But the scallop shell has one more meaning, a metaphorical one. It is considered that its lines represent the different routes pilgrims take to arrive at the tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela.

In some regions, like Asturias, people consider that the longest line of the scallop is the one pointing towards Santiago.

As already mentioned, the ‘Vieira’ reassures pilgrims they are on the right path since it is usually placed next to a yellow arrow, the most accurate ‘road sign’ on the Camino de Santiago.

But the shell is more than a symbol. It was worn by medieval pilgrims attached to their hats or cloaks, as it had a practical purpose. They used it as a bowl to hold their food and drink during the pilgrimage. At churches and other establishments that used to feed the pilgrims, the scallop shell scoop was the measure for food.

Obviously, I do not use my vieira to eat or drink on my pilgrimage. But the scallop shell has been with me from the start of my pilgrimage. It’s not only a symbol of the ‘right way to Santiago de Compostela’, but also a memento, proof of having completed the El Camino.

So enough about dung and scallop shells – check out some views from the past day or two (I did not take any poop photos.)

It is well with my soul.

I felt like I was floating in the clouds.

Moments of pure beauty on the Camino.

I love the contrast between the sky, fog, and the green meadow.

This dude’s been around for a while.

Reflection of a scallop shell water fountain.

Entering Sarria, there is 114 km to Santiago. Once you walk through Sarria, you will have 112 km to Santiago.

I’m here May 31 – June 2.

The scallop shell and the yellow arrow – sometimes the Camino goes both directions
.

Version of the shell and arrow in Castilla Y Leon region.

The shell along with multiple route arrows.

A scallop shell embedded in the sidewalk.

Shell on an apartment building in Burgos.

My Camino vieira.